The History of Costume: Ancient Greece
Attire for Women
The clothing worn by Greek women adhered to the same aesthetic principles as men's attire, but it possessed distinct characteristics. Women's clothing was generally more modest and extended in length. Unlike men's clothing, women's garments were not cut but rather draped. The most ancient attire for Greek women was the Doric peplos, similar to the men's chlaina.
The peplos was a rectangular piece of woolen fabric, wrapped around the body and secured with pins at the shoulders. Its right side, adorned with intricate patterns, remained unstitched. This served as the outer, flowing robe for Greek women, often cinched with a belt.
Similar to men, women wore an undergarment known as a tunic, fastened at the shoulders with brooches. Adult women donned long chitons, while younger women wore shorter versions akin to those worn by men. The female silhouette in the Doric chiton resembled the proportions of a Doric column, reflecting an ancient aesthetic.
Later, the Dorian chiton gave way to the Ionic chiton, which became the national attire for all Greeks. In the archaic period, a skirt was occasionally worn over the tunic, possibly influenced by Cretan-Mycenaean fashion. However, this style was primarily observed in the clothing of Attic Greek women. The Ionic chiton was often fastened not only at the waist and hips but also across the chest.
An important decorative feature of a woman's chiton was the diplodion, a lapel of varying shapes and lengths above the chest. It was created by folding over the upper edge of the chiton's fabric, resulting in a short outer layer. During the classical era, the Doric chiton experienced a resurgence in popularity, adorned with intricate patterns or vibrant colors. However, the pristine white chiton was always regarded as the most elegant.
Chitons were crafted from wool or linen fabric, available in white, yellow, and red hues. Another variant of the chiton was the tunic, made from soft yet substantial woolen fabric, reaching the ground in length. Typically, it featured a white base with a colored border. The tunic was secured with a belt that added structure to the draping folds, allowing for various stylings. Girls wore the belt at the waist, while married women wore it beneath the chest.
For more relaxed occasions, Greek women also sported the exomis. Occasionally, their attire included a delicate, translucent fabric scarf known as a calyptra. Women accessorized with items such as umbrellas to shield them from the sun's rays and fans, which came in various shapes, most frequently resembling a lotus flower.
